OK Key West wasn't so bad after all.
by Susan 5-25-2012
This was my second visit to Key West and I was hoping I would like it better than I had ten years earlier when Jim had taken me to Key West to show me where he had grown up. I didn’t fall in love with Key West this time either, but I did have a good time hanging out with the in-laws! My husband is fortunate to have funny and up-for-anything relatives and I benefited from this circumstance greatly! They took a grumpy skeptic and coaxed her into actually enjoying a week in what I believed was falsely labeled PARADISE. But it took some doing……… Our condo in the Truman Annex complex was cool and modern and, thank god, had super comfy beds! It was conveniently located within walking distance of Duval Street and all the historic attractions we had planned to visit. The complex had a smallish pool also, but I was disappointed to see the vast expanse of barren white concrete patio surrounding it, removing any possibility for the lush tropical foliage adorning the neighborhood to take root and shade or even just embellish the stark courtyard area. There wasn’t even a pop of bright umbrella fabric to be seen over the white plastic tables sitting in the hot sun. |
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The first afternoon as we walked down Duval St. to Mallory Square, I tried really hard to get that feeling I usually get on my travels, like the excitement of being in different environment and anticipation of what is around the next corner, but all I felt was the humidity, the crush of the crowds and a general lingering head achy feeling from indulging in alcoholic drinks too early on a hot day.
As we explored Duval St, my sandals were rubbing stinging blisters into my moist feet , so even if I had wanted to, I couldn’t appreciate the leathery fellow balancing at the top of a tall ladder in Mallory Square shouting less than funny comments and begging for tips to the crowd below him. We made our way through the combination of cruise ship escapees and drunken revelers all packed like sardines and vowed to come back on a day when the cruise ships were not in port. Currently, the cruise ships release their human cargo only on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Herds of people fill Duval street bars and T-shirt stores. Those would be great days to get a rental car and explore the other keys. Since we hadn’t anticipated this, all I could say as we trudged back to the condo was “I still hate Key West!” while my husband swore never to invite me with him ever again. Did I mention that he loves this place and that he grew up in Key West?
One bright spot in that late afternoon was Kelly’s Caribbean Bar. This restaurant and bar should not be missed as it is nestles in a tropical courtyard, serves really good food and has a great tiki style bar.
As we explored Duval St, my sandals were rubbing stinging blisters into my moist feet , so even if I had wanted to, I couldn’t appreciate the leathery fellow balancing at the top of a tall ladder in Mallory Square shouting less than funny comments and begging for tips to the crowd below him. We made our way through the combination of cruise ship escapees and drunken revelers all packed like sardines and vowed to come back on a day when the cruise ships were not in port. Currently, the cruise ships release their human cargo only on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Herds of people fill Duval street bars and T-shirt stores. Those would be great days to get a rental car and explore the other keys. Since we hadn’t anticipated this, all I could say as we trudged back to the condo was “I still hate Key West!” while my husband swore never to invite me with him ever again. Did I mention that he loves this place and that he grew up in Key West?
One bright spot in that late afternoon was Kelly’s Caribbean Bar. This restaurant and bar should not be missed as it is nestles in a tropical courtyard, serves really good food and has a great tiki style bar.
Fortunately, the new day brought along a new optimism the next morning. Since the port was empty of cruise ships, we wandered lightly populated streets, taking in the tiny white wooden houses, hung with compliments of rainbow shutters. Each postage stamp courtyard was enclosed and draped with tropical vines or lined with palms. Varieties of tropical flowers, garnished the walls and fences. I recognized hibiscus, jasmine, bougainvillea and orchids among them. It was divine to walk the streets brushing by plants that would produce a lush fragrant smell or reveal a burst of bright color among its green leaves.
We eventually ended up at the famous home of Ernest Hemingway, which should be a pilgrimage for anyone who loves the early 20th century era in literature or just loves history. We were greeted by the lounging gazes of six toed cats bred and kept on the property. The house was built in 1851 and became Hemingway’s home in 1931. The house itself was full of antique furniture that he and his family used, old black and white photos of Hemingway’s several wives and out in the back courtyard was a long pool. There was a guest house with an upstairs room where his desk sat idle in the center and a bamboo lounge chair waited patiently for its long gone owner. The room looks as if he just stepped away from his writing to take a swim. Our self guided tour did not take up much time since we were there early in the morning and the crowds had not yet gathered.
Our next stop was the Lighthouse and Lighthouse-keeper’s quarters across the street. The lighthouse was built in 1847 to aid ships navigating the dangerous reefs off the lower keys. It is the 15th oldest lighthouse in the U.S. We entered through a gift shop packed with really interesting items related to lighthouses and nautical Key West and in the hall leading to the lighthouse was a giant egg shaped antique glass lens large enough to walk into. It is from the Sombrero Lighthouse, a now automated lighthouse that sits in the Atlantic Ocean, offshore from Marathon Key.
The climb up to the top of the lighthouse may be steep and the curling iron staircase narrow, but it was well worth the effort. The 360 degree view is one of the best in Key West and the circular landing has small signs pointing out the important landmarks around the island. I realized immediately that this was not a place to visit when packed with tourists. There simply wasn’t room for more than a few people at the top and the steep iron staircase accommodated only one-way traffic at a time. Early morning or late in the day would be the best time to visit and only on days when the (you know whats) are not in port!
The street eventually leads you to the ocean and the southernmost point in the U.S. where you can line up for a picture with what I assume is the southernmost land-buoy.
Our next stop was the Lighthouse and Lighthouse-keeper’s quarters across the street. The lighthouse was built in 1847 to aid ships navigating the dangerous reefs off the lower keys. It is the 15th oldest lighthouse in the U.S. We entered through a gift shop packed with really interesting items related to lighthouses and nautical Key West and in the hall leading to the lighthouse was a giant egg shaped antique glass lens large enough to walk into. It is from the Sombrero Lighthouse, a now automated lighthouse that sits in the Atlantic Ocean, offshore from Marathon Key.
The climb up to the top of the lighthouse may be steep and the curling iron staircase narrow, but it was well worth the effort. The 360 degree view is one of the best in Key West and the circular landing has small signs pointing out the important landmarks around the island. I realized immediately that this was not a place to visit when packed with tourists. There simply wasn’t room for more than a few people at the top and the steep iron staircase accommodated only one-way traffic at a time. Early morning or late in the day would be the best time to visit and only on days when the (you know whats) are not in port!
The street eventually leads you to the ocean and the southernmost point in the U.S. where you can line up for a picture with what I assume is the southernmost land-buoy.
This time, our foray into Duval Street and Mallory Square was great, lots of fun shops filled with art, jewelry and beach ware and don’t miss the Coach Factory store. They have gorgeous handbags at really great prices! To celebrate our purchases, we took the elevator to the rooftop bar at the La Concha Hotel. Besides the lighthouse, this hotel has the best view in Key West and no steep windy stairs to climb!
We arrived at Mallory Square just in time for sunset and snagged bar stools at the pier railing not too far from the band. We listened to music while the dying orange sunset glinted on the water around us and the sails of the catamarans and sailboats floated by, dusky but tinged with the last of the golden rays, on their way back into their snug docks. After this impressive sunset, we found a table nearby and I ate the most delicious fish taco’s I have had in a long time.
We arrived at Mallory Square just in time for sunset and snagged bar stools at the pier railing not too far from the band. We listened to music while the dying orange sunset glinted on the water around us and the sails of the catamarans and sailboats floated by, dusky but tinged with the last of the golden rays, on their way back into their snug docks. After this impressive sunset, we found a table nearby and I ate the most delicious fish taco’s I have had in a long time.
Our travel partners headed back to the condo, but Jim and I pressed on to the Hog’s Breath to listen to more great music. It’s no secret that there are loads of fun bars in Key West. A few of my favorites are the Hog's Breath Saloon (great bands!), Captain Tony’s (walls covered with dollar bills and business cards and a huge old tree growing inside the bar), and the Bull and Whistle. The Bull is the downstairs portion of the bar and its dark interior feels like an ancient sailor’s bar, but the murals on the walls document the raucous, more recent history of the bar. My husband Jim used to live in an upstairs apartment. Those apartments are long gone and the Whistle bar is now located on the second floor and has a narrow balcony lined with bar stools, running along the outside above busy Duval St. This is a great place to people watch! Jim pointed out where he had installed an old ship porthole in the apartment floor to accommodate a basket that he would lower by rope to the bar below with a note inside listing his drink order whenever he was entertaining at home. Too bad they have removed it now. I guess they didn’t want their guests falling though it!
With our plan to dodge the cruise crowds, we drove off the next morning to Big Pine Key to find Key Deer in the National Key Deer Refuge. The Key Deer were the cutest, tiniest deer I have ever seen. They were only about 24-36 inches tall and roamed freely around the small neighborhood that shares the area with the refuge. They’re almost tame due to so many interactions with humans, so feeding them is strictly forbidden.
The refuge is sandy and filled with beach vegetation so I wasn’t surprised to see an Iguana sunning itself by the path as we walked through the refuge. They aren’t native to the Florida Keys, so this one was probably a released pet or descendent of one. There are lots of places on the keys where Iguanas have multiplied into large groups.
Jim and his brother led us to a fresh water pond (the only one in the keys) where they used to swim as children and we found a small alligator waiting at the edge, just under a viewing bridge, also obviously used to getting hand-outs from visitors. I couldn’t believe it when Jim told me that there used to be an enormous old alligator back in the day when they swam there. Crazy kids! Needless to say, they don’t allow swimming there in today’s world.
The refuge is sandy and filled with beach vegetation so I wasn’t surprised to see an Iguana sunning itself by the path as we walked through the refuge. They aren’t native to the Florida Keys, so this one was probably a released pet or descendent of one. There are lots of places on the keys where Iguanas have multiplied into large groups.
Jim and his brother led us to a fresh water pond (the only one in the keys) where they used to swim as children and we found a small alligator waiting at the edge, just under a viewing bridge, also obviously used to getting hand-outs from visitors. I couldn’t believe it when Jim told me that there used to be an enormous old alligator back in the day when they swam there. Crazy kids! Needless to say, they don’t allow swimming there in today’s world.
By the time we reached our northern most point at Marathon, we had to stop for fortification drinks at the Sunset Grille and Raw Bar. The bar had an intricately thatched roof and panoramic view of the 7 mile bridge connecting Knight’s Key to Little Duck Key. We were able to sit at the railing facing out to this amazing view.
On our way back before leaving Marathon, we had to stop to take pictures of the Turtle Hospital, where they rescue, rehab and release sea turtles. They do really good work there helping out sea turtles that have been inadvertently caught in traps, are injured or sick.
On our way back before leaving Marathon, we had to stop to take pictures of the Turtle Hospital, where they rescue, rehab and release sea turtles. They do really good work there helping out sea turtles that have been inadvertently caught in traps, are injured or sick.
The plan for the afternoon was to shop and have lunch at the marina at the end of Front St. We chose to sit outside on the veranda at The A & B Lobster House and our timing couldn’t have been more perfect. The heavens opened up just after we were seated and a deluge of rain poured on Key West. I have never seen so much rain in such a short amount of time! Sheets of huge of raindrops pelted the fishing vessels in the harbor and the palms were bending from the wind. After finishing lunch, since we were trapped at the restaurant (no umbrellas), we sat watching the amazing show, drinks in hand for the next hour. When the sun finally came out, we stepped out into the streets we were not surprised to find them almost a foot deep in water. Such is the summer weather in the tropical keys!
That evening we decided to try something other than seafood so we opted for La Trattoria, an Italian restaurant that turned out to be fantastic. We were sat in the window so we could watch the world go by while we munched on bread and savored a terrific red wine. The service was great and the food was yummy. The Tortellini Virgilio was filled with cheese, sweet Italian sausage, tomatoes, onions and garlic and the Osso Bucco was tender and juicy. This restaurant gets lots of kudos from me!
That evening we decided to try something other than seafood so we opted for La Trattoria, an Italian restaurant that turned out to be fantastic. We were sat in the window so we could watch the world go by while we munched on bread and savored a terrific red wine. The service was great and the food was yummy. The Tortellini Virgilio was filled with cheese, sweet Italian sausage, tomatoes, onions and garlic and the Osso Bucco was tender and juicy. This restaurant gets lots of kudos from me!
One place I really enjoyed visiting was the “Little White House”, where several presidents spent time, beginning with Taft and which witnessed several momentous moments in history, not the least of which was the Bay of Pigs, nuclear confrontation during President Kennedy’s administration. The tour is very informative and the guides friendly and knowledgeable. You must take a tour to see the house. The guide led us through the rooms which were decorated with the furniture from President Truman’s occupation of the house, including his big round customized poker table with cigar and chip holders imbedded in the table. The table included a beautifully crafted table top that could cover the poker table to turn it into a dining table for Mrs. Truman since. She would have it set for tea in the afternoon .
Nearby is the Audubon House. John James Audubon, the naturalist and exceptional painter of birds visited Key West in 1832. He spent time on the 10 acre parcel where the house museum now sits and painted 18 new birds for his “Birds of America” folio while in the keys. The house itself was built not too long after that visit by harbor pilot and Master of Wrecks, Captain John H. Geiger. The house is filled with furniture from around the world of that era, many of which are examples of the type of salvage that would have been rescued from the ships wrecked on the treacherous reefs. The top floor houses vibrant Audubon originals.
Nearby is the Audubon House. John James Audubon, the naturalist and exceptional painter of birds visited Key West in 1832. He spent time on the 10 acre parcel where the house museum now sits and painted 18 new birds for his “Birds of America” folio while in the keys. The house itself was built not too long after that visit by harbor pilot and Master of Wrecks, Captain John H. Geiger. The house is filled with furniture from around the world of that era, many of which are examples of the type of salvage that would have been rescued from the ships wrecked on the treacherous reefs. The top floor houses vibrant Audubon originals.
Once again we were really lucky to run across an excellent restaurant/bar combo called the Roof Top Cafe that had terrific service and food (my favorite, fish tacos!) and a view of the colorful art market kiosks from the second floor balcony seating. We could see beads hanging from the trees where they had been caught up in the limbs after being thrown during one of the street carnivals held in Key West.
Each morning we tried a new breakfast location, SaraBeth’s was excellent and located in what was once a synagogue. We also tried the Six Toed Cat (passable) and Croissants de France which had wonderful Nutella, strawberry, and banana crepes. My favorite breakfast restaurant though was Blue Heaven. It is a delight to sit in the courtyard accompanied by chickens and roosters strolling through the tables and cats lounging on the patio. Speaking of chickens and roosters……. They are everywhere in Key West and at the time we visited, the hatchlings were following their mothers in adorable little groups, huddling together whenever startled. I wasn’t as fond of the 4:30 a.m. cock-a-doodle-do’s from the roosters, waking us each morning.
On our last day, we ate lunch at one of the best kept secrets in Key West. The Rusty Anchor Restaurant has a retro interior of varnished wood worthy of any sailboat, a colorful tropical fish tank, super friendly staff, and the best conch fritters in the keys. Don’t be turned off by the scruffy looking neighborhood, this is truly a local gem.
On our last day, we ate lunch at one of the best kept secrets in Key West. The Rusty Anchor Restaurant has a retro interior of varnished wood worthy of any sailboat, a colorful tropical fish tank, super friendly staff, and the best conch fritters in the keys. Don’t be turned off by the scruffy looking neighborhood, this is truly a local gem.
Jim and his brother Bob decided to wear off the lunch calories by hiking over to Fort Zachary Taylor which lies in the state park near a beautiful stretch of beach. The fort was built in 1845 and played an important role for the Union during the Civil War as it was headquarters for the U.S. Navy’s East Coast Blockade Squadron which helped prevent supplies from reaching Confederate ports in the Gulf of Mexico. The fort hosts some really impressive artillery and canon and an earthwork battery protects the old fortification. Again we found Iguanas. They had taken up residence near the fort and lots of small green baby Iguanas followed their moms across the sand into the camouflaging foliage.
We couldn’t visit the Florida Keys and not eat some Cuban food. The small and casual Cuban restaurant called El Siboney served some really good pork roast marinated in Mojo, a citrus marinade that makes your lips pucker, but tenderizes and flavors the pork to perfection. This was topped with pickled grilled onions and served with Yuca which is a starch somewhat like a potato. My dinner partners also tried the plantains and black beans and rice to experience the full Cuban fair.
We couldn’t visit the Florida Keys and not eat some Cuban food. The small and casual Cuban restaurant called El Siboney served some really good pork roast marinated in Mojo, a citrus marinade that makes your lips pucker, but tenderizes and flavors the pork to perfection. This was topped with pickled grilled onions and served with Yuca which is a starch somewhat like a potato. My dinner partners also tried the plantains and black beans and rice to experience the full Cuban fair.
In the end, I actually liked Key West. We had a great time and there are lots of terrific reasons to vacation there, but for me this visit was probably my last. You know the old saying about long lines and if everyone loved the same things the lines would be very long. Therefore; I’ll leave Key West to those who can really appreciate its many charms.
