Grodno Castle - A Medieval Treasure Hiding in the Mountains of Poland
There is nothing better than finding a truly off-the-beaten-path castle, where you feel like you have it all to yourself! This was the case with Grodno Castle (Zamek Grodno) in the tiny village of Zagorze Slaskie in the Walbrzych Mountains of Silesia in Poland.
It was the second castle we visited during our driving day trip from Wroclaw, Poland and remains my favorite of all the castles we came across during our trip.
As we viewed it across the miles where it perched high overlooking the remote wooded valley and the river Bystryca, we didn’t realize what awaited us before we could actually enter the castle.
It was the second castle we visited during our driving day trip from Wroclaw, Poland and remains my favorite of all the castles we came across during our trip.
As we viewed it across the miles where it perched high overlooking the remote wooded valley and the river Bystryca, we didn’t realize what awaited us before we could actually enter the castle.
The parking for Grodno Castle is at the bottom of the very steep hill upon which the castle sits. The hike up the hill is not meant for the out-shape which Jim and I proved as we huffed and puffed on our way up taking breaks to catch our breath every so often. Fortunately, there we a number of signs with information about the local plants, animals and surrounding landscape providing reasons to stop our climb for a few moments.
Even as we peered upward at the daunting trail above us, I was not going to give up so I cajoled Jim to keep going promising the castle was just right around the next bend in the trail. As it turned out, it was several bends away in the end, but it was well worth the effort. Not only was the trail beautifully lined with trees and ferns, but the castle at the top was an unusual surprise.
Even as we peered upward at the daunting trail above us, I was not going to give up so I cajoled Jim to keep going promising the castle was just right around the next bend in the trail. As it turned out, it was several bends away in the end, but it was well worth the effort. Not only was the trail beautifully lined with trees and ferns, but the castle at the top was an unusual surprise.
According to some traditions the castle was built in 1193, by Duke Boleslaw I (The Tall), though some guide-books state that it was built by Bolko I, at the end of the 13th century. It may be that both are the case since castles were destroyed and rebuilt over and over during those turbulent centuries. The castle, together with a network of fortresses was used as a defense line between the Duchy of Jawor and the Kingdom of Bohemia. In the 16th century Grodno Castle was expanded by the addition of a gatehouse, on which there is precious sgraffito and a sundial clock from 1716.
The castle was devastated in battles against the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War and slowly fell into ruin. Fortunately, is was partly restored from 1907 – 1929 and is currently under further restoration to return it to its former colorful glory.
The castle was devastated in battles against the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War and slowly fell into ruin. Fortunately, is was partly restored from 1907 – 1929 and is currently under further restoration to return it to its former colorful glory.
The portion of the castle you can visit today is a warren of rooms. As you walk into the main building, you first proceed down to the cellar which displays an eclectic world of mean-looking prison torcher devices. Across the hall, a dark cave holds the skeletal remains of a young woman resting in the darkness. As the story goes…. The young woman murdered her husband and was condemned to death by starvation by her own father.
The other part of the castle museum consists of rooms filled with furniture and artifacts, local natural history displays and a model of the castle as it would have appeared originally.
The interior courtyards are still mostly in ruin but give you a real sense of how grand the castle must have been during its hey-day.
Though we opted not make the trek up the many stairs, the castle has a tower of considerable height from which you can enjoy a fantastic view of the mountains.
There is an area outside where you can buy drinks and snacks which was definitely a welcome break before heading back down the steep hill. Inside, there are lunch tables and a large event space.
Grodno Castle is definitely worth the hike up the hill and I can only imagine how much more fun it will be to see when completely restored. At the time of our visit, the chapel was under restoration as well as the gate house and from what I saw, they will be magnificent, so I have a lingering wish to go back again to experience the results of all this restoration.
As we have learned during our years of travel, there are always many reasons to return to wonderful locations!
As we have learned during our years of travel, there are always many reasons to return to wonderful locations!
