Charming Czocha Castle !
I am laughing to myself as I begin this post because it is the second in what will be a number of articles about what my parents always termed as the ABC tour as I was growing up.
What is the ABC tour? Well it’s the “Another Bloody Castle” tour of course, a designation developed by them after a number of European cruises and group tours featuring visits to one castle after another.
Fortunately, this phrase didn’t dampen my desire to see every castle in the world, instead it increased it and I dreamed of visiting castles all throughout my childhood. As you may have figured out from my other posts, Castles are just a bit of an obsession for me!
What is the ABC tour? Well it’s the “Another Bloody Castle” tour of course, a designation developed by them after a number of European cruises and group tours featuring visits to one castle after another.
Fortunately, this phrase didn’t dampen my desire to see every castle in the world, instead it increased it and I dreamed of visiting castles all throughout my childhood. As you may have figured out from my other posts, Castles are just a bit of an obsession for me!
Czocha Castle, located in the village of Czocha (Gmina Lesna) in Lower Silesia in Poland, is as story-book pretty as a castle can be as you view it from the parking lot. The charming gables, red pitched roofs, half-timbered and honeyed stone walls and round tower topped with a cupola gather together at the end of a lovely stone bridge supported by graceful arches.
Historical records differ as to when the castle was originally built, but consensus is generally that the construction of the earliest fortress of Czocha first took place in the mid-13th century.
Historical records differ as to when the castle was originally built, but consensus is generally that the construction of the earliest fortress of Czocha first took place in the mid-13th century.
The fortress construction was ordered by the Czech King Wenceslaus I of Bohemia (Czech King Waclaw I in Polish). The earliest mention of the fortress in documents dates from the year 1241.
The castle was built as a stronghold defending the village of Czocha and the Czech border. It is strategically located on solid rock next to Lake Lesnia, near the Kwisa river and was part of a larger fortified frontier zone with several other castles on the left and right banks of the river. At that time, the river formed the Czech/Polish border. On the north side of the river was the Duchy of Piast and the lands owned by the Polish Dynasty.
Photo above by Bosia2011 [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
The stronghold was developed into a true stone castle at the beginning of the 14th century thanks to the initiative of the Piast dukes of Świdnica and Jawor. In 1319 the complex became part of the Piast dukedom of Henry I of Jawor, when he married the Czech King’s daughter and was given Czocha Castle and its surrounding feudal lands as a dowry. Over time, the castle functioned less as just a fortress and became the grand residence of a noble family.
In 1346, after the death of prince Henry I Jaworski, the castle was taken over by another Silesian prince, Bolko II the Small, and became a fiefdom of the Czech Kingdom.
In 1346, after the death of prince Henry I Jaworski, the castle was taken over by another Silesian prince, Bolko II the Small, and became a fiefdom of the Czech Kingdom.
Bolko II (The Small) and wife Agnes of Austria - by Theodor Blätterbauer [Public domain]
Through the centuries, the castle had several significant noble owners who added additional rooms, buildings and protective walls, gates and bridges as the castle occupants continued to withstand attempted seizure of Czocha through siege and war.
The oldest part of the castle was most likely a Medieval quadrangular stone building placed on the eastern riverside promontory with a round tower in the north-west corner and a gate from the west.
The oldest part of the castle was most likely a Medieval quadrangular stone building placed on the eastern riverside promontory with a round tower in the north-west corner and a gate from the west.
In the 16th century, the castle underwent a Renaissance rebuilding effort, the fortifications were modernized, and the bastions were added.
Another remodel took place in the 17th century, however, in 1793 the castle was devastated by fire. Roofs and some walls collapsed, the bridges were severely damaged hindering any attempts to save the contents and treasures of the castle. Almost all were destroyed by the fire. The castle remained almost totally derelict for over 100 years.
Another remodel took place in the 17th century, however, in 1793 the castle was devastated by fire. Roofs and some walls collapsed, the bridges were severely damaged hindering any attempts to save the contents and treasures of the castle. Almost all were destroyed by the fire. The castle remained almost totally derelict for over 100 years.
Photo above by Barbara Maliszewska [CC BY-SA 3.0 pl (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/pl/deed.en)]
In 1909, Czocha Castle was bought by a cigar manufacturer from Dresden, Ernst Gutschow. What you see now is a compilation of the remaining original medieval and renaissance structures surrounded and enhanced by the 1910 additions.
The 1910 neo-gothic and neo-renaissance reconstruction was carried out by Berlin architect Bodo Ebhardt, based on a 1703 painting of the castle. This painting would have been a 18th century vision of the Middle Ages.
The 1910 neo-gothic and neo-renaissance reconstruction was carried out by Berlin architect Bodo Ebhardt, based on a 1703 painting of the castle. This painting would have been a 18th century vision of the Middle Ages.
Berlin architect Bodo Ebhardt
photo above by Rudolf Dührkoop [Public domain]
photo above by Rudolf Dührkoop [Public domain]
This construction gave the castle the fanciful gothic and renaissance character that is so enchanting today. He was able to spend large amounts of money to restore much of the fabric of the castle such as roof timbers, ceilings, paneling and fittings which you see today.
Photo above by Barbara Maliszewska [CC BY-SA 3.0 pl (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/pl/deed.en)]
Ernst Guschow lived in the castle until 1945. When he left the castle, fleeing the advancing Red Army, he took the most valuable possessions and furnishings with him.
Over the next few decades, the castle and any furnishings left at the castle were again used and abused. The castle was ransacked and items stolen after WWII by the Red Army and Polish thieves. It was used as a Greek refugee camp, and as a secret military vacation resort for the Polish Army.
Over the next few decades, the castle and any furnishings left at the castle were again used and abused. The castle was ransacked and items stolen after WWII by the Red Army and Polish thieves. It was used as a Greek refugee camp, and as a secret military vacation resort for the Polish Army.
The castle, which is now owned by the Polish State, has been open to the public as a castle museum since 1989.
In 1996, the castle was repaired and re-furnished and was opened as a hotel and conference center.
In 1996, the castle was repaired and re-furnished and was opened as a hotel and conference center.
When we arrived at the ticket office located at the gate entrance, the person working there didn’t speak English. Since we didn’t speak or read Polish, we accidently bought the wrong tickets (self guided tour), and due to this had to run back to the second ticket office in the hall of the castle to buy new tickets just as our tour was about to proceed into the house.
Thank goodness the tour guide was kind enough to wait a few minutes for us! I am glad (and grateful!) to say, both the guide and those at the second ticket office spoke English.
The tour is in Polish, but they do give you an brief written English guide to read as you go through the rooms. Sadly, I could tell from our group’s reactions to the guide, that we were missing out on some of the more unique and interesting details and made me wish I spoke Polish. Even so, we enjoyed the tour.
Thank goodness the tour guide was kind enough to wait a few minutes for us! I am glad (and grateful!) to say, both the guide and those at the second ticket office spoke English.
The tour is in Polish, but they do give you an brief written English guide to read as you go through the rooms. Sadly, I could tell from our group’s reactions to the guide, that we were missing out on some of the more unique and interesting details and made me wish I spoke Polish. Even so, we enjoyed the tour.
The Knights’ Hall is the largest room in the castle. The fireplace is made in the neo-gothic style and the castle’s owners’ coats of arms are displayed. Ernest Gutschow, the last owner and restorer of the castle interior, included “his” coat of arms which he had purchased but was not really entitled to since he was not a noble of any kind.
The wood ceiling is a spectacular piece of workmanship with a single beam hewn from an entire tree trunk extending across the length of the whole ceiling.
The large gallery over the entrance door is where musicians would perform when the owner was entertaining guests. Interestingly, the chandeliers are deceptive. The entire chandelier is made from wood but carved and painted to look like metal.
The wood ceiling is a spectacular piece of workmanship with a single beam hewn from an entire tree trunk extending across the length of the whole ceiling.
The large gallery over the entrance door is where musicians would perform when the owner was entertaining guests. Interestingly, the chandeliers are deceptive. The entire chandelier is made from wood but carved and painted to look like metal.
Knights Hall - Photo above by Andrzej Otrębski [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
Knights Hall - Photo above by Andrzej Otrębski [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]
The Marble Hall is one of the oldest parts of the castle. The floor is made of various Italian marbles giving the hall its name.
The vaulted ceiling dates from the Renaissance as does the fireplace. There are paintings just under the vaults from the early 20th century portraying Ernest Gutschow and his wife.
Purportedly, there is a ghost of a faithless wife who haunts the Marble Hall. Upon finding his wife was unfaithful and had given birth to her lover’s child, the owner of the castle, Johann, murdered both. He drowned his wife Ulrika in the well outside the castle while bricking her child up in the fireplace of the hall. As the story goes, one can hear the child crying at times and the ghost of Ulrika rises up from the well in the courtyard to come into the marble hall and comfort her child.
The vaulted ceiling dates from the Renaissance as does the fireplace. There are paintings just under the vaults from the early 20th century portraying Ernest Gutschow and his wife.
Purportedly, there is a ghost of a faithless wife who haunts the Marble Hall. Upon finding his wife was unfaithful and had given birth to her lover’s child, the owner of the castle, Johann, murdered both. He drowned his wife Ulrika in the well outside the castle while bricking her child up in the fireplace of the hall. As the story goes, one can hear the child crying at times and the ghost of Ulrika rises up from the well in the courtyard to come into the marble hall and comfort her child.
Marble Hall - Photo above by
Barbara Maliszewska - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=28358202
Barbara Maliszewska - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0 pl, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=28358202
The Well - Barbara Maliszewska [CC BY-SA 3.0 pl (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/pl/deed.en)]
During the war, Czocha Castle was used for various things by the German Nazi Government. They maintained heavy anti-aircraft protection in the area. A huge two-tonne device for code breaking was also installed in the castle. These activities are reflected in vignettes created to portray how the castle rooms were used during the war. There is also a small attached artifact and document room .
Written records suggest that there are approximately 40 hidden passageways inside the castle. Only 14 have been found so far. Interestingly, one of the passageways leads to the well! We explored a few of the secret routes during the tour. I particularly loved the secret door in the Library. Adding to the mystery, there are also known to be several unopened or inaccessible spaces, chambers and rooms within the castle complex. What fun it would be to search for those!
The Prince’s Bedroom is where the last private owner of the castle, Ernest Gutschow, slept. The room is dominated by the ornate four-poster bed original to Czocha. There would have been long curtains hanging on both sides of the bed so a special wooden gate in the footboard opens up to access the bed. Above the bed you can see the coat of arms that Ernest purchased for his family name. The inscription reads “Frangens (frangas?) non flectes” possibly meaning “You may break me, but you will not bend me” or I may break, but I will not bend. (very odd and stern motto!).
The bed has one really strange aspect! There is a secret trap door connecting one half of the bed with the basement when the mattress is lifted. Legend states that it was used for getting rid of enemies and inconvenient mistresses. I lean toward using it as a hiding place! As a matter of fact, there actually is a hiding-place built into the walls of room also.
The bed has one really strange aspect! There is a secret trap door connecting one half of the bed with the basement when the mattress is lifted. Legend states that it was used for getting rid of enemies and inconvenient mistresses. I lean toward using it as a hiding place! As a matter of fact, there actually is a hiding-place built into the walls of room also.
The Prince's Bedroom
The Prince's Bedroom
Next to the bedroom is a dressing room furnished with an antique wardrobe originally from the castle and a bathroom. The bathing equipment comes from the beginning of the 20th century. It was made in England and still works. You can actually book to stay in this room as part of the hotel. Might be a fun place to spend a honeymoon!
The guided tour ends at stairs that lead to the tower entrance. If you would like to see a beautiful view from castle, 100 steep stairs lead up to the castle’s highest vantage point in the tower. We opted out since we were in a bit of a hurry, but now I wish we had taken the time.
As you leave the castle, be sure to notice the patterns of black and white Sgraffito that decorate the courtyard buildings. This was a popular type of wall decoration during the Renaissance. It is made by applying thin overlying contrasting colored coats of plasterwork and then scratching off parts of the top layer to reveal the color below. These examples date from the 17th century.
Along with functioning as an elegant hotel, Czocha Castle hosts Knights' tournaments, dance shows, comedy acts and concerts. It has a lovely café, bar and a restaurant specializing in Polish cuisine. The castle's wine cellar hosts mead-tasting events.
The castle grounds have also been used as the set for many feature films and documentaries.
The castle grounds have also been used as the set for many feature films and documentaries.
Look Below!
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